Catwalk Review

Balmain’s SS24 Menswear is No Tough Pill to ‘Swallow’

From an electric color palette to roaring animal motifs, Balmain lets their wild side manifest in their recent menswear collection.
By Mike Sabella – November 2, 2023
Balmain SS23: Look #28
Courtesy of Hypebeast

On October 6th, 2023, Balmain debuted their SS24 menswear collection at their famous Paris boutique, located at 44 Rue François 1er. This eye-catching collection was inspired by house founder Pierre Balmain’s experiences traveling in Asia & translated for the world of French couture, according to Balmain creative director Olivier Rousteing. In particular, Rousteing focused his attention on souvenir jackets that originate from Vietnam, South Korea, & Japan.

Balmain SS24: Look #1
Courtesy of Hypebeast

As soon as the models began to stroll down the hardwood floors of the boutique, the blending of cultural symbols and styles became immediately obvious. The sleek & chic satins from the elevated fashion world juxtaposed with the flashy & bold iconography of the animal kingdom embedded into the garments crafted into one-of-a-kind garments. Some animal motifs were clearly visible whereas others appeared in a more subtle context, materializing in the form of style lines. Tigers, dragons & especially swallows were embroidered, flocked & beaded in extravagant detail onto specifically targeted areas such as lapels, sleeve caps & center panels. According to Rousteing, swallows were essential in capturing the essence of Pierre Balmain in this collection because he valued swallows as a symbol of good luck.

Balmain SS24: Look #18
Courtesy of WWD

Shades of azure blue, scarlet red, as well as metallic gold & silver were the most prominently featured hues in Balmain’s menswear show. They were paired delicately along with the classic shades of onyx & ivory to balance out the beautifully deafening nature of the existing color palette.

Balmain SS24: Look #3
Courtesy of WWD

The silhouette of the models made their figures appear more oversized than they would normally be, with much of the attention & emphasis being drawn to the chest & neckline. Mandarin collars were the standard for many of the looks, tapering the necks of the models down to counter the already rather bulky facade designed by Rousteing. The wrists of many models were adorned with jewels & golden bracelets, while others had contrasting decorations present on their wrists designed into the look. The cohesive attention to detail in the silhouette achieved by Rousteing is commendable. This being amplified by the flowy embellishments on the otherwise rigid silhouettes of the models, Balmain has proven that birds of a feather truly do “flock” together.


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